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BEFORE WE START

Some tips to make the most of the eating out part of this guide: 

 

 

Granada has more than two thousand restaurants and tapas bars. Exactly one for every 112 inhabitants. Choosing just a handful for this guide is a difficult task and, above all, very subjective. In this list I have put places that I love and offer excellent value for money and that are generally liked by visitors and locals alike. Of course, the distance from the accommodation has played an important role in selecting them. Obviously there are fabulous tapas bars in the outskirts of the city and also in the surrounding towns, but they are not very practical for a visit of only a few days.

 

Vegan and vegetarian places have their own section. In the other sections, I have added the label VEGETARIAN OPTIONS ON THE MENU for those places that not being fully vegetarian still offer several nice green options to choose from

 

Clicking on the name of the establishment will take you to the location on Google maps. The number in front of the name matches the number on my map which you can find at the bottom of this page. My students and guests will also get a printed copy of it.

 

Opening times: Spanish people do eat late when compared to other countries. If you get to a restaurant o tapas bar when they are opening you will easily find a table even at the most popular places. I would say from 12:30 to 13:00 for lunch and from 20:00 to 20:30 for dinner. Beware, earlier than that you will probably find that most local places are still closed. Some tapas bars remain open all day but most of them do not serve tapas from 16:00 to 20:00 as their kitchen is closed. The price of the drinks will stay the same though with or without tapa. Restaurants and tapas bars usually close at midnight and kitchen closes 30 minutes or one hour before. In Plaza Nueva and Plaza Bib-Rambla, the two most touristic squares in Granada, you will find restaurants open all day where you can have lunch and dinner at any time. Keep in mind that they are extremely touristy places and not cheap at all.

 

 

 

RESTAURANTS

 

Remember: Clicking on the name of the establishment will take you to the location on Google maps.

  

1 Bar Aixa (Plaza Larga, 4) Closed on Tuesdays 

 

In one of the most charming and historical squares of the Albaicín near Mirador de San Nicolás. Aixa restaurant is incredibly popular and the service is very efficient. There are two or three restaurants here, so close together that their tables literally touch each other's. Make sure you sit at a table that belongs to this restaurant and not another ;) My favorite dish here is their scrambled eggs with potatoes and ham, they are really delicious. Pisto (a sort of ratatouille) with fried eggs is also great. Portions at this restaurant are big, keep that in mind before ordering too much food.
 

2 El Ladrillo II (Panaderos, 35) Closed on Wednesdays 

 

One of the most popular places to eat fried fish. A beautiful house with an Andalusian patio in the Albaicín, near Mirador de San Nicolas.


3 La Bodega de Antonio I 
(Calle Jardines, 4) Closed on Wednesdays 

 

An all time classic. The Galician octopus, the alabarce potatoes and the homemade croquettes are among the most requested. To drink, the cerditos de vino (piggy-shaped frozen clay jugs filled with ribeiro) are part of the local's history.
 

4 Morrocan Restaurant Arrayanes (Cuesta Marañas, 4 Albaicin Bajo) Closed Monday and Tuesday  

 

VEGETARIAN OPTIONS ON THE MENU

 

Award-winning and recommended over and over again, it is not nearly as expensive as one might think based on its appearance and its prizes. Mustafá, the owner, speaks as many languages ​​as one can imagine and is always chatting with and attentive to his customers. A wonderful place and, above all, with really spectacular food. They don't serve alcohol, but their homemade lemonade with mint is so delicious that you won't miss either wine or  beer here. It is my favourite Morrocan restaurant in Granada. Although it is included it in the international food section below I couldn't help adding it here too because I could never recomend it enough and because, somehow, Moorish places are such an essential part of Granada's history as well. Then, after dinning, what better than a stroll through Las Teterías (see number 16)

 

5 Café Futbol / La Esquinita de Javi (Plaza de Mariana Pineda) La Esquinita de Javi closes Sunday and Monday  

 

Grenadians love El Café Futbol to drink chocolate with churros and La Esquinita de Javi to eat fried fish, seafood and paella. The greatest virtue of Café Fútbol is the proximity to the flat, the variety on the menu and their non stop kitchen service, which is available all day from 6:30 AM 'til midnight making it ideal for eating outside of hours when other restaurants are closed. La Esquinita de Javi is a fantastic place both for tapas and for eating a la carte. Both are a two-minute walk away. An ideal option if you arrive late and tired at night and do not want to walk a lot. 

      

8 La Freiduría de Tere (Plaza Pescadería, 22) Opens only for luch from 11:00 to 14:30 and it is closed Sunday and Monday and holidays.  

 

This square owes its name to the fishmonger (pescadería) the Cunini family, originally from the coastal town of Motril, had here. In 2015 they moved the fishmonger and opened this small fry shop that became popular inmediately. Their fried fish cartridges are wonderful and the main attraction, but they have other delicious things, their homemade fish paella , for example. It's a takeaway place only, not a restaurant, although if you're lucky you might find one of its two small tables free, otherwise just find a bench in the square and enjoy! Next to the chip shop is the Cunini seafood restaurant, run by the same family and possibly the best in the city, although its prices are certainly not cheap.

 

9 El Botánico (Calle Málaga, 3)

VEGETARIAN OPTIONS ON THE MENU
 

 

Excellent restaurant in front of the Botanical Garden with a modern and minimalist space with a "vintage" theme and "retro" style furniture. It serves excellent international food with beautifully presented oriental, Italian or Mexican dishes. My favorite one is the teriyaki tuna (slice of fresh tuna grilled in a Japanese sweet sauce marinade ) although they only have it in tuna season. Take the opportunity to visit the small Botanical Garden, the interior of tha Faculty of Law and the Plaza de la Universidad right there. 

 

10 Bodegas Castañeda (Calle Almireceros, 1) 

 

With more than 100 years of history, it is one of the places you should not miss on your visit to Granada. It's always crowded, that's its only drawback, but it's for a reason. If you think that there is not a single space for you, talk to the staff, they are super friendly and in less than 20 minutes they will have you placed in some corner that you had not even seen. Their endless menu of dishes occupies the entire paper tablecloth . The Tabla Fría, a mix of smoked fish, cold meats, cheese, nuts etc is fantastic (ask for half if you are two or three people because it is huge), the croquettes, the tortilla, the cod are also very good. On the other hand, I do not reccomend the Tabla Caliente. In my opinion is the worst thing they have. Too greasy and salty. They have a spectacular home-made vermouth called calicasas, which can easily knock you down.

Warning! There is another restaurant just behind this one with almost the same name (Antigua Bodega Castañeda or also Casa Castañeda)

 

This problem with the names comes from an old family dispute and as they are so similar and both are next to each other many visitors get confused and that is a shame because the other one is very expensive, the service is terrible and the food bad. To avoid any confusion, pay attention to the exact name (Bodegas Castañeda) and the street (Almireceros). If you still have doubts, take a good look at a not so banal detail: one is overflowing with people and the other is almost always empty. That says it all. The dining room next to the main entrance, also on Almireceros street, on the corner of Bodegoncillos street, is also theirs, and so are the tables on the street between the two premises. I hope you like it as much as I do. It is one of my most loved places in Granada since I arrived here 20 years ago 


33 Kiosko Las Titas (Paseo de la Bomba)


This charming art nouveau metal and glass venue by the river is a classic of local Granada culture. Its interior is wonderful, yet rarely does anyone notice it because the tables outside in the garden are the real attraction here. Las Titas is a restaurant but also a tapas bar and a café and a place to have a beer at any time. Las Titas can be whatever you want, your place for a coffee in the morning, or a tea with cake in the afternoon or a glass of wine in the evening. The only important thing is that you find the ideal table for you, under a tree or umbrella if it's hot, in the sun if it's cool, near the entrance if it's windy or far from it if you want more tranquility. Leave the hustle and bustle of the city and the comings and goings of cars and tourists and forget for a moment that you are just a five-minute walk away from the city center.

 

 





 

TAPAS BARS

 

Oh! The tapas in Granada! They are like a magnet that attracts locals and tourists alike. Yes, in Granada, as in no other place in Spain, the tradition of giving a free little dish of food with each drink has been preserved. But going out on a tapas tour has its tricks and, sometimes visitors get it wrong. So let's bring some light to the subject. It is not necessary to go specifically to a tapas bar to be served a free tapa. Most restaurants also offer tapas with drinks in the same way that most tapas bars also offer dishes and meals. So what exactly is the difference? Let's say, to simplify, that in Granada we call restaurants those places where we go mainly to sit down and eat a plate, although they also serve tapas. And we call tapas bars those establishments where we mainly go to drink and snack, usually standing at the bar, although many of these places also have tables and serve meals. It is also important to know that there are two types of tapas bars: Those in which they serve you a tapa that you do not choose (this is the traditional model and is also the case in most restaurants) and those that give you the option of choosing the tapa. The latter are very popular among young people and university students because they allow them to choose the most filling ones. The bars that allow you to choose the tapas have another peculiarity: they offer extra tapas at a very affordable price. Also, do not mistake "tapa" for "ración" . A "racion" is a dish that is enough for one person to eat, although most of the times they could even feed two people because "raciones" in Granada are usually enormous. Keep this in mind if you are going to ask "raciones". One last tip: We Spanish do eat late and we apparently do not mind eating standing in an amazingly crowded place. If you are used to eat earlier that's only good news for you as you can avoid the crowds and get a table by getting there around 12:30 / 13:00 (lunch) or 20:00 / 20:30 (dinner) before local people do. In Plaza Nueva and Plaza Bib-Rambla, the two most touristic squares in Granada, you will find restaurants (but not tapas vars) which are open all day and where you can have lunch and dinner at any time. Keep in mind that they are very touristy places.

 

Remember: Clicking on the name of the establishment will take you to the location on Google maps.

 

17 Bar Ávila (Calle Verónica de la Virgen, 16) & Bar Ávila Tapas II (Calle San Isidro, 11) You choose your free tapa here - Closed on Sundays

 

Warning: The first one of the two is actually under restoration. Go to the second one

 

Here you can choose your free tapa from a long list of very tasty things. An amazing place, good and incredibly popular among locals. Big portions. Don't miss their “Jamón Asado" (Roasted HamHam) which is their most popular tapa.  It has only one drawback, the same one as in all good places in Granada: It is usually crowded. .

 

18 La Trastienda (Calle Cuchilleros, 11) Closed on Sundays


An old delicatessen whose back store (trastienda in Spanish hence the name) local workers used to enter to eat. Custom became tradition and the back room was remodeled creating an intimate and informal atmosphere. The store has been preserved as it was, with its old scales and weights and the counter from over 100 years ago. The cute interior with low poufs and sofas and warm lighting is somewhere between a pub and your living room. The tapas are always based on sausages, cold meats, pate or cheese of very good quality but short in size. Don't expect to eat on tapas here, but if you want to get your fill of chorizo, Iberian ham and other delicacies washed down with good wine in an almost chill-out atmosphere, this is the place.

 

19 La Clausura (Calle Málaga, 13 in Plaza de los Lobos) Closed on Sundays


They serve rich and generous tapas.
 The place is nice, the value for money is good and to round off the experience you can have a nice coffee at El Bohemia, just in front of the other side of the square (see N4 in this list)

 

20 MinotauroTapas (Calle Imprenta, 6) Closed Tuesday and Wednesday

 

This is the typical tapas bar that anyone would have liked to have near their high school or college when they were students. A nice and informal place where you can fill your stomach with simple but tasty tapas for very little money. Let's make it clear, quantity prevails here. The quality is obviously nothing to write home about and they don't go around with any frills when presenting the tapas, but it is the ideal place to satisfy your hunger without spending much: A bagel with loin, lettuce and sauce with fries with a beer for some 2 euros.

 

21 La Riviera ( Calle Cetti Meriem, 7) You choose your free tapa here

 

This bustling, crowded kind of pub and tapas bar hybrid is popular with students because it's cheap and the tapas are big and tasty. Their "Carne en salsa" (meat in its sauce) is great. You can choose your tapa here. Only make it sure you ask for it or otherwise if you don't they will serve you whatever comes first. It's really worth it -if you can get in, of course- And if you feel like partying right next door you have Hannigan's (see N4 on the list)

 

22 Om Kalsum (Calle Jardines, 17)  You choose your free tapa here - Closed on Sundays

 

VEGETARIAN OPTIONS ON THE MENU

 

This is an extremely popular Moroccan tapas bar. It is run by people from Casablanca and has a young and relaxed atmosphere. It is usually crowded so if you want to find a place it is better to arrive either early or very late. Here you can choose your free tapa with every drink you buy and you can also buy as many extra tapas as you want. They are really cheap and very tasty. They have couscous, hummus, falafel, shawarma, tajin, and much more. This bar is on the same street and very close to Bodega de Antonio I, which is a tipical Spanish restaurant also included on this guide (see number 3).

 

23 Navas Street - Los Diamantes (Navas 28 )  

 

Calle Navas is the quintessential tapas street, from the beginning to the end of it, left and right, one after the other, you will see nothing but tapas bars and restaurants. It is quite touristy, yet it has its little gems and places that the locals continue to frequent without fearing the crowds. One of them stands out: Los Diamantes. It's small and noisy with that hard-to-explain charm that old places have. Here there is no choice but to stand and fight for a spot at the bar because there is not even room for a stool, let alone a table.

 

23 Los Diamantes 2 ( Rosario 12), Los Diamantes II (Plaza de los Campos, 1) & Los Diamantes Plaza Nueva ( Plaza Nueva 13) 

The popularity of their small place on Calle Navas led its owners to open a second bar not far from it, on Calle del Rosario 12, which was later extended up to Plaza de los Campos and became the Diamantes II, exactly as good as the original, but bigger, more comfortable and modern and with lovely tables to eat outside in the square. It is my favourite because of the beautiful location, the tables to eat outside in the square and because it is the closest to my place. There is another one in Plaza Nueva 13 and they have recently open aother one in Bib Rambla Square. The quality and the prices are the same.

 

24 Campo del Principe (Plaza Campo del Principe)

This 
is not a bar but a square. The largest in Granada. It is included here because on one of its sides there is an endless line of good tapas bars that are very popular with locals, especially at the weekends. None stands out in particular. In terms of price and quality they are quite similar so choose the one that appeals to you the most. The real reason for recommending this location is the possibility of being away from tourism and surrounded by people from Granada for once. Children will be playing in the park, lovers cuddling on the benches, young people skateboarding or playing soccer. Just sit down and watch. It is a much-loved place and it is worth touring the square to see its many interesting buildings and architectural styles. Especially pretty is the church of San Cecilio, from which, and if you like walking, you can go all the way up to beautiful Carmen de los Martires and from there to the Alhambra    

 

25 El Conde (Virgen del Rosario 12) Next to Los Diamantes (23 on this list) and La Tana (28 on this list)

 

Excellent food and service. Super friendly staff. Good innovative tapas and a wide selection of wines from different regions of Spain, all at a reasonable price. Don't expect the usual tapas or meals, they definitely like to experiment with new recipes and new ways of combining traditional Spanish ingredients. Try their scrambled eggs with ham and potatoes. You cannot choose your tapa here but their most popular one (Hamburger with quail egg) will invariably be served with your first drink. If you are a vegetarian, it is better to tell them so when ordering the drink before the tapa is served.

 

 

 

 

 

 

TAPAS BARS (FOR WINE LOVERS) 


If beer is your thing, then Granada is yours, but if you worship the god Bacchus you may end up getting tired of so much cheap Rioja and average Ribera. The three places that I recommend here below are three true gems because of their good tapas, their nice location, their decoration and, of course, for their wide selection of wines. None of the three is exactly cheap, but they win hands down in terms of value for money.  

 

Remember: Clicking on the name of the establishment will take you to the location on Google maps.

 

27 Ajoblanco (Palacios, 17) Closed on sundays


A place like in the old days. A wine house with soul. A real gem. No soft drinks, no beer on tap, no television. Time stands still in this wine bar in our neighbourhood. In front of the church of Santo Domingo. So close! And so good!

 

28 La Tana (Calle Rosario, 11 next to Placeta del Agua)

This little tavern is no secret to locals. It is usually crowded. 
Again! Their tapas are exceptional and so is the quality of their wines. Their toast with blood sausage mousse and pine nuts is the customer's most desired trophy. But since you cannot choose your tapa here, they usually make you wait for it and they don't serve it until you've had two or three glasses of wine. You can try and put on a pity face and kindly ask them to serve you the blood sausage you so much want to try as a starter before you get drunk. It has worked for me sometimes, but not always. If it's too crowded to push a pin in, don't despair, most of the bars in this central yet somewhat hidden area are excellent. Some of them are also in this guide. Try El Conde (number 25 on this list) or Los Diamantes (number 23 on this list)  or anyone of the other places in this charming little corner of the centre  

 

29 “La Brujidera” Casa de Vinos (Wine House) ( Monjas del Carmen Street, 2)

A classic among classics, a lovely place with old-world charm and 
probably the widest selection of wines you can find in Granada. It's name says it all. No less than 13 reds and 13 whites to order by the glass and many, many more if you order by the bottle. The tapas, both the ones you get free with your drink and the ones you pay for, are excellent.

 




 

  

VEGAN AND VEGETARIAN


Places listed here are vegan or vegetarian only. There are many good restaurants in Granada that, not being exclusively vegan or vegetarian do have vegan or vegetarian options on their menus. You can easily find those places checking for the green label "vegetarian options on the menu" in the other sections in this guide

 

Remember: Clicking on the name of the establishment will take you to the location on Google maps.

 

 

6 Hicuri (Plaza de los Girones, 4) Closed on Sundays

100%
VEGAN

 

Hicuri's daily menu (for lunch only) includes two courses, dessert and a drink. Its value for money is unbeatable. The atmosphere is bright and welcoming and the service is very friendly. The interior is fully decorated with graffiti by Raúl Ruiz (El Niño de las Pinturas) , Granada's most acclaimed graffiti artist . By the way, the drawing that decorates the fridge door in your room is a fragment of one of his works painted on the two facades of a house in the Realejo neighbourhood, very close to this restaurant by the way. In case youolike street art and want to see it, this is its location: Raúl Ruiz Street Art   

.

7 El Piano (Santiago, 2)

100%
VEGAN  & GLUTEN FREE
  

 

Very close to the Hicuri, the Piano is more humble and homely and much less elegant, but its food is delicious and always prepared with fresh and good quality products. A recommendation: try the meatballs in tomato sauce!  They are like the ones our grandmothers used to make, but without meat! In addition to being 100% vegan, all their dishes are gluten-free.

        

11 Paprika Restaurant (Cuesta de Abarqueros, 3)

 

VEGAN

 

This restaurant comes to prove that vegetarian food doesn't have to be boring. Not at all. It is not just a restaurant but also a tapas bar. Their tapas are delicious and... vegan of course!

 

 

26 Papaupa (Calle Molinos 16) Closed Monday and Tuesday

 

VEGAN,  VEGETARIAN AND GLUTEN FREE OPTIONS  

 

A charming place with good service and a very personal, familiar and welcoming retro decoration. Homemade fusion food. They call it retrofusion. Ceviches, woks, Colombian arepas, stews and much more. It is not a vegetarian place but almost as they have a high number of vegetarian  options on the menu

 

 

34 Raices (Calle Pablo Picasso, 30)  On Sundays and holidays it only opens for lunch


VEG
AN AND VEGETARIAN


O
pened in 1982, it was the first vegetarian restaurant in Granada. Its desserts are delicious, its menu is extensive, the service is super friendly and its atmosphere is calm and cozy. It has a menu of the day for €10.80 (except on Sundays and holidays) which changes daily and is updated on its website. You can check today's menu clicking here. 

 

 



 

INTERNATIONAL FOOD


When someone asks me where they can eat that is not full of tourists, I answer, half jokingly half seriously, that in a Chinese, an Italian or a Mexican place. The truth is that "Granadinos" are already a bit bored with tapas and flamenco, so to find locals and mingle with them, there is nothing better than eating in international restaurants and going to rock concerts. Jokes aside, these magnificent restaurants are a gem if you want to try something different from tapas while in Spain if only for one day. 


Remember: Clicking on the name of the establishment will take you to the location on Google maps.

 

 

30 Restaurante La Cantina Mejicana del Sur (Cuesta del Realejo 1)

          

My apologies to the Mexicans for the "j" but that's what the place is called and how they write it. Without a doubt the best Mexican restaurant in Granada. The food is delicious, the decor is bright and joyful, and their highly sophisticated margaritas… well, they are simply indescribable. Don't drink anything else, drink them before eating, while eating and after eating, and then if the whole world just turns around you don't worry, luckily the way back home is all downhill.   

 

31 Il Gondoliere  (Calle Martinez Campos, 24 ) +34 958 251 834 - Off Map but only a 15 minutes walk from home

 

If you ask anyone in Granada which is the best Italian restaurant in town, they will all give you the same answer: “Il Gondoliere”. The big problem with everyone agreeing on this is that getting a table her can be sometimes impossible, and this despite the fact that the restaurant is huge. It is advisable to call and make a reservation, especially on weekends, holidays and the eve of holidays. Their Risotto Gondoliere is delicious. As for the pizzas, be careful with them because they are the size of an UFO and they do not quite fit on the table, even though they insist they are for one peeson.

 

32 Kirin Japanese Restaurant (Calle Pedro Antonio de Alarcón 23 ) - Off the Map but only a 15-minute walk from home


Today Japanese food has become fashionable everywhere, but the Kirin was already in Granada long before this trend. It was the first one and itcontinues to be the best Japanese restaurant in Granada. They go far beyond sushi and sashimi and have some really amazing dishes on the menu. Their set tasting menus are a very good way to try many different things with an unbeatable value for money.

 

4Morrocan Restaurant Arrayanes (Cuesta Marañas, 4 Albaicin Bajo) Closed Monday and Tuesday  

 

VEGETARIAN OPTIONS ON THE MENU

 

Award-winning and recommended over and over again, it is not nearly as expensive as one might think based on its appearance and its prizes. Mustafá, the owner, speaks as many languages ​​as one can imagine and is always chatting with and attentive to his customers. A wonderful place and, above all, with really spectacular food. They don't serve alcohol, but their homemade lemonade with mint is so delicious that you won't miss either wine or  beer here. It is my favourite Morrocan restaurant in Granada. Although it is included it in the international food section below I couldn't help adding it here too because I could never recomend it enough and because, somehow, Moorish places are such an essential part of Granada's history as well. Then, after dinning, what better than a stroll through Las Teterías (see number 16)

 



 

COFFEE, TEA, CAKES & ICE CREAM

 

The number in front of the name matches the number on my map which you can find at the bottom of this page in case you want to check it.

 

Remember: Clicking on the name of the establishment will take you to the location on Google maps.

 

12 Cafeteria Alhambra (Plaza de Bib-Rambla, 27)

 

The best hot chocolate with churros in town. The queues in winter prove it! Before asking for too many churros be aware that what they call churros here in Granada are called porras (bigger and thicker) in other parts of Spain (Madrid for instance) where churros are much thiner and lighter. Besides, portions in Granada are quite large

 

13 Pastelería Cafe López Mezquita (39 Reyes Católicos Street) On Sundays it only opens in the morning

 

Cafeteria, pastry shop, home-cooked takeaway and gourmet shop all in one. My favorite cake is the “Torta Mohina”. It is exclusive to this bakery and to make it even more complicated they do not make it every day. That only makes them more desiderable ;)

 

14 Piononos de Casa Isla (Acera del Darro Street, 62 in front of El Corte Inglés)

 

Traditional piononos are so popular in Granada there is no pastry shop that does not sell them. The original ones are those from Casa Isla and there is a branch of this chain practically on every street in Granada, so you will not have any problem finding them. The one that I indicate here is only the closest. If you want them to take as a gift, it is better to buy them frozen, so when you arrive home they will be ready to eat. In La Isla they also put them in a beautiful gift box with the history of this speciality. But, it is not only piononos they have here. Their cakes and pies are delicious, some even having been winners in international competitions. And for me, being a big coffee fan, their coffee is one of the best in the city.

 

15 Fior Di Gelato (Calle Acera del Casino, 3) Ice cream only in summer / Chocolate fritters in winter

 

This is very personal but in my opinion they have the best ice cream in Granada. Creamy, without a hint of frost. Simply delicious. They only have ice cream from March/april to October/November -more or less- depending on the weather. When the cold arrives, it is converted and instead of ice cream they make the typical donuts with hot chocolate that are also finger-licking good. So in winter or summer, if you like sweets, here you have one more temptation. It has no tables, no bar, you can only buy to take away and eat out.   

 

16 “Las Teterías” (Calle Calderería Nueva and Calderería Vieja)

 

These two streets of the lower Albaicín frame a charming Moroccan neighborhood full of shops and tearooms where you can buy handicrafts and clothes from the Maghreb, try exotic teas and smoke hookah. It feels like being on a trip to Morocco but without leaving Granada. Beautiful and colorful. But be careful with the prices, especially in the tearooms, because they are highly inflated by tourism. The crafts, however, continue to be very affordable although obviously not as much as in Morocco itself. If you are around here and you are hungry, it is a good opportunity to visit the Arrayanes Restaurant (Number 4 on this list)












TERRACES WITH A VIEW

What better after a long day, in the evening or on summer nights, than to enjoy a drink with a view of the mountains, the city, the Alhambra or the Albaicín?

 

 
Monasterio Chill Out (Hotel Los Jerónimos)

Huerto del Loro Rooftop

B-Heaven







GOING OUT FOR A DRINK

 

These are some places that are popular and which I like to go to when it comes to having a drink at night. Again, this is obviously a very personal thing, but I can assure you that it's not just me who likes these sites. Go to any of them and you will see. On my map these places are marked in white numbers on a gray square background.

 

 

Remember: Clicking on the name of the establishment will take you to the location on Google maps.

 

 

N1 Ganivet Street (Calle Ganivet) 
    

Ganivet Street has always been one of the most aristocratic (and boring) streets in the city. The first remains the same but the second has changed a lot lately. Gourmet bars, glamorous pubs and some clubs of those which won't let you in depending on your look or clothes have all proliferated. Anyway, there are some nice places, though pricy, and it is so close to the flat that it is worth stopping to have a beer on a terrace just to see another side of Granada society. Lively and crowdy at the weekends. Quieter on work days.     

 

N2 Hanalei (Piedra Santa, 22)


When it comes to cocktails this is my little castle. A hidden place in a narrow street in the center. Full of bustle, music of a thousand different styles and glasses on fire (literally). Impossible and exotic combinations of fruit juices and spirits at an unbeatable price. The owner lives upstairs and personally runs the business as if it was his baby. An umpretrensious place for you to just have a good time.

 

N3 Bohemia Jazz Café (Plaza de los Lobos, 11 )

 

The most beautiful café in Granada. A journey through time through its collection of antique objects and its vintage aesthetic. A pianist dusts off the piano keys on Fridays and Saturdays. The rest of the days good jazz sounds through the speakers. It's hard to find a table but it's worth a try. They have great shakes and cocktails and their hot chocolate with cognac or whiskey is delicious. Of course there are all kinds of coffees and teas as well.
 

N4 Hannigan and Sons (Cetti Meriem, 1)    
       
 

The Hannigan's is not just another pub. It's "The Pub". It has been at the center of Granada nightlife for decades and continues to be a benchmark. Its music from the 80s and 90s, its diverse clientele, its mix of locals and foreigners, its good vibes and its good beer are unrivaled. Packed to the brim until 3 in the morningAlso a great place to watch footbal and rugby matches too.  

 

N5 Premier Room (Plaza de Mariana PIneda, 1)


The Sala Premier opened in Granada in 2021 with an eclectic offer a wide variety of people fell in love with. It has two floors full of contrasts, inspired by the cinema, with a mixture of extravagance and elegance. You can feel you are in the Middle Earth chatting with a hobbit; traveling on the famous Orient Express or having a beer in Hannibal Lecter's cell. Leave it up to your imagination. Live music, several weekly jazz and blues nights, interactive games and theme parties etc. If you are curious it is just two blocks from here.  


N6 Pedro Antonio Street (Calle Pedro Antonio de Alarcón)


From Calle Recogidas to Plaza Einstein. This is the street par excellence of Granada's nightlife and its sixty thousand students. An endless trail of pubs, cocktail bars, clubs and discos of all kinds of styles and for all tastes and pockets. And many, many kebab, sawarma and pizza places, most of them open until dawn because, as we all know, dancing and drinking always makes you very hungry.


N7 Elvira Street (Calle Elvira)

 

Although it is no longer what it used to be, Elvira Street, parallel to the Gran Vía de Colón, is still a benchmark for Granada's bohemian nightlife. It starts in the well lit super touristy and elegant Plaza Nueva and becomes darker and more indie as we move away from it. There are plenty of kebabs, oriental and Moroccan restaurants and lots of little clubs to have a drink.

 

 

FLAMENCO IN GRANADA

People from Granada don't go to see flamenco every day, but every day there are tourists who want to go see flamenco. Unless you are lucky enough to be here during a festival or there is a perfomance by a renowned artist in a theater, chances are that if you want to see flamenco in Granada you will have to go see some show for tourists. That said, just because it's flamenco for tourists it doesn't mean it's bad. Not at all. Competition is big and the artists who perform in these tablaos are excellent. Here I have chosen three for you: One, my favorite, in the Albaicín, which is somewhat expensive but, in my opinion, surpasses all the others in terms of quality. Besides, it has an exceptional chef. This is where I take my friends and family when they come to Granada.

The other, of course, could not be otherwise, it is a cave in Sacromonte. The gypsy quarter of Granada is full of caves with flamenco shows and attracts thousands of tourists every day. You have to be careful because in no place like here quality can go from excellence to disaster.

Remember: Clicking on the name of the establishment will take you to the location on Google maps.

 

F1 Gardens of Zoraya (Panaderos, 32) in the Albaicín, not far from San Nicolás

Pure, elegant and powerful flamenco in an old Moorish house with a garden in the Albaicín, very close to the San Nicolás viewpoint.

Artists on stage: Usually four (male and female dancers. guitar and singer) with some guest artists sometimes.

Deep, more intense and more professional than the most popular flamenco shows in the Sacromonte but it might be harder to understand to those no very aquainted to flamenco, while the most knowledgeable will undoubtedly appreciate the finesse of the presentation. The food is simply fantastic. In winter you have dinner and see the show inside. In summer there is the possibility of having dinner in the Andalusian garden and then going inside to see the show. If the weather is good, this second option is my favorite.

Approximate prices:

Show:

25 Euros (Drinks not included)

Show+Gourmet Selection Dinner:

54 to 64 Euros (Drinks not included)

On certain dates (Valentine's Day, Easter, Granada Fair, Christmas, etc.) they might have a special menu and flamenco program and the price can be higher.

 

Booking:
 

It is not necessary to book if you are only going to see the show, but for dinner it is advisable to call beforehand or book online. .

Phone for reservations:

(+34) 958 206 266

Online booking:

https://flamenco.jardinesdezoraya.com/

To get there:

The place is marked as F1 on my map

Walking (It takes about 30 minutes) or on bus C31 which runs from Plaza Nueva every 7 minutes.

Note: On weekdays there is no bus after 11:00 pm to return. You can return by taxi (about 10 euros) or on foot (about half an hour down-hill)

 

 

F2 La Venta El Gallo (Barranco de Los Negros, 5) in the Gypsy neighbourhood of Sacromonte

The flamenco that is seen in the Sacromonte is different from anything that can be seen in other "tablaos", be it in Granada, Seville or Madrid. The gypsies call it "zambra" which is a word of Arabic origin that means "party". And indeed, what viewers pay to see is a kind of representation of a gypsy party. The truth is that unless you know someone gypsy and are lucky enough to be invited to a baptism, a wedding or a birthday, this is the closest you will ever get to seeing what a gypsy celebration is like. La Venta El Gallo is my favorite cave, due to the incomparable beauty of the place and the joy it transmits from the stage. It is a happier and less technical show than the one offered by Jardines de Zoraya, perhaps of less quality, but more colourful, more universal and easier for all audiences to enjoy.

Artists on stage: It varies but the number is usually large with eight or more artists together on stage (it has to, otherwise the party atmosphere would be difficult to get)

Here you also have the option of dinner+show or only show. The food is very good. In summer there is the possibility of dining on the small terrace that they have with wonderful views of the Alhambra. Booking is essential if you are going to have dinner, but not if you just want to see the show. To dine on the terrace, reservations must be made well in advance.

Aproximate prices:

Show

22 Euros (A drink included)

Show + dinner

52 Euros (Drinks Included)

Booking:

It is not necessary to book if you are only going to see the show, but for dinner it is advisable to call beforehand or book online.

Phone for reservations:

(+34) 640 147 985 / (+34) 858 950 315

Booking Online:

Reservas Venta El Gallo

To get there: 

The place is marked as F1 on my map

Walking (It takes about 45 minutes up-hill) or on bus C34 which runs from Plaza Nueva every 20 minutes.

Note: On weekdays there is no bus after 11:00 pm to return. You can return by taxi (about 10 euros) or on foot (about half an hour down hill)

 

 

 




PRACTICAL INFO

Here you have a few links to some of the most frequently needed services such as laundry, post office, taxi stop, supermarkets, etc.

 

Remember: Clicking on the name of the service will take you to the location on Google Maps. 

 

Laundry

The Closest laundry (less than a five-minute walk) is Speed Queen (Cuesta del Progreso 2) Self Service. Open all days from 08:00 to 22:00

 

Alhambra Ticket Office

Tickets can be bought in advance online from the Alhambra official website, by phone (+34 858 953 616 ) and from the automatic machines located uphill in the Alhambra Pavilion Access and also in the Corral del Carbon in the centre of Granada.

Tickets for the same day can only be bought at the Ticket Office in the Alhambra.

 

Luggage Storage

If you have a late flight, bus or train out of Granada and need a place to leave your luggage after checking-out We Locker (Calle Campo Verde, 2) is very close and convenient. Anyway, talk to me before, because in most cases it might be possible for you to leave your stuff here. I'll try and do my best but I can't promise anything as it will all depend on my work, appointments etc.

 

Post Office

I know, no longer a service as necessary as it used to be, yet, just in case, the one at Puerta Real is the main one and the nearest

 

Supermarkets:

Carrefour Express (Acera del Darro, 74) Opens all days from 09:00 to 21:00.

Mercadona (Acera del Darro, 98) is just a bit further down the same street. They have a greater variety of products and in many cases of a better quality at a similar price. Closes on Sundays and holidays.

 

Taxi Stops

There is one in Plaza Mariana Pineda (very close) but sometimes there are no taxis there waiting and it can take some time before one arrives. Just a hundred meter further, in Plaza Fuente de las Batallas is the main taxi stop in the centre where you will not have any problem getting one.

 

Tourist Office

Just like the Post Office, a service no longer as used as it was in the past. Yet, If what you want is to put together a bunch of tourist brochures there is no place like this: Oficina Municipal de Turismo de Granada

 

 


LOCAL BUSES

Here you can get the exact location of the nearest stops for the most frequently needed local buses.

Remember: Clicking on the name of the bus will take you to the location of the bus stop on Google maps. 

 

Bus to the Airport

Take the BUS AEROPUERTO at Acera del Darro, 1
Check the schedule in advance online here:
 https://www.alsa.es/aeropuertos/granada-jaen

 

Bus to the Bus Station

Take bus number 33 or number 21 from Acera del Darro, 1

 

Bus to the Railway Station (RENFE)

Take bus number 4 at Acera del Casino, 5 (Puerta Real) (Get off at Avenida Constitución, 38 and then walk down Avenida Andaluces)

 

Bus to the Alhambra

You can easily walk from here to the Alhambra. It is a nice 20-minute walk. If you need to get a bus, take bus C30 or bus C32 from Plaza Isabel La Católica, 4

 

Bus to the Albaicín, San Nicolas and Jardines de Zoraya

It is just a 23-minute walk to Mirador San Nicolas from here. If you want to get a bus, take C31 from Plaza Nueva

 

Bus to the Sacromonte

It takes about 30 minutes on foot to get to the Sacromonte neighbourhood. If you want to get there by bus, take C34 from Plaza Nueva

 

 

 

 

 

VIEWPOINTS

Here you have the exact location on Google Maps of my four favourite viewpoints as marked on my map.

Remember: Clicking on the name of the destination will take you to the location on Google maps. 


MIRADOR DE SAN CRISTOBAL

This viewpoint offers a wide perspective of the city and the Alhambre with the canvas of the old Ziri wall in the foreground

MIRADOR DE SAN NICOLAS

Without any doubt, the most famous viewpoint in Granada. The best time of the day (and the most crowded with people) is at sunset and after it as it gets dark. You will find flamenco musicians there together with street vendors, jogglers, acrobats, joint smokers, tourists from all over the world and a long etc. in an eclectic, festive and unprejudiced atmosphere. If you arrive before sunset and you are looking for something more quiet, you can visit the gardens of the mosque to the left of the church (facing the Alhambra) from where you have the same view but in a more relaxed atmosphere.

MIRADOR TORRE DE LA IGLESIA DE SAN MIGUEL BAJO

An astonishing full 360 degree view of Granada including a wonderful perspective of the Alhambra and the mountains. The only drawback is it does not have opening times for visitors. If the church is open you can go up, if it is not don't cry, enjoy a beer and some tapas in thisy cosy and beautiful square.
 

MIRADOR DEL SACROMONTE

Walking from Cuesta del Chapiz to Abadia del Sacromonte on Camino del Sacromonte, you will enjoy amazing views of the Alhambra, the mountains and the gypsy neighbourhood

 




GRANADA ON FOOT

Three walking tours for you to discover and enjoy the city best 




Ruta Centro Granada



A walk through the city centre:


From the Plaza de Mariana Pineda we go to the Plaza del Campillo and from there to the Fuente de las Batallas and the Plaza de la Acera del Casino to Puerta Real. We are in the Km ‘0’ of the city, in the centre of Granada.

From here we enter Mesones Street, the most commercial street of the city, and we arrive at the beautiful Plaza de Trinidad, with its immense trees, along Trinidad street we arrive at the Botanical Garden of the University of Granada and the Plaza de la Universidad with the Faculty of Law, which is worth entering to admire its architecture, patios and fountains.

Along Calle San Jerónimo we reach the Plaza Romanilla with its famous Monumento al Aguador and the modern García Lorca Centre. We pass the Plaza de la Pescadería with some of the city's most expensive restaurants specialising in fish and seafood. From here along Calle Marqués de Gerona we reach the Plaza de las Pasiegas dominated by the imposing structure of the Catedral, next to it the Plaza de Alonso Cano gives access to the Palacio del Arzobispado, the Iglesia del Sagrario, the Royal Chapel where the Catholic Monarchs are buried and the labyrinth of the old silk market, the Zoco de Granada or Alcaicería. Through this intricate market we enter the Plaza Bib-Rambla, the most important square in Granada, full of restaurants. The Cafetería Alhambra here has the best chocolate with churros in the city.

From the cafeteria, Príncipe Street leads to Plaza del Carmen with the Town Hall building with its bronze horse and its clock. Here is where locals see the old year out (and eat the twelve grapes) on 31st December. The TOURIST OFFICE is inside the Town Hall.

Along Calle Mariana Pineda we come to the Corral del Carbón, the most important and best-preserved civil building of Muslim Granada. The small alley in front of the building leads us to Calle
Reyes Católicos and up to the right we reach the Plaza de Isabel La Católica with the imposing wrought iron sculpture representing Queen Isabella and Christopher Columbus explaining to her his plans to sail west to India. Well, we are not going that far. Our next destination is the Albaicín.

 

MORE TOURS COMING SOON!


A walk through the Albaicín and the Sacromonte:


ruta albaicin y sacromonte

The Albaicín is the oldest quarter of Granada and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Discovering its narrow streets and small squares on foot, enjoying its viewpoints and getting lost in its alleys will be one of the most memorable experiences you will take with you from Granada.

We start this tour
Plaza Nueva, la más concurrida y turística de la ciudad. The walk along the river Darro from the Church of Santa Ana at the end of the square to the Paseo de los Tristes at the foot of the Alhambra is the most beautiful in Granada (during this section of the walk you can visit El Bañuelo, El Maristán, La Casa de Zafra and La Casa Morisca de Horno de Oro).

From the Paseo de los Tristes we go up the Cuesta del Chapiz where you can visit the beautiful Casa del Chapiz and reach the junction with the Camino del Sacromonte which takes us into the most picturesque and unique quarter of Granada, the gypsy and flamenco quarter par excellence with its intricate architecture of cave houses. Arriving at the flamenco cave of María la Canastera we will see a staircase that leads to another flamenco cave called La Venta el Gallo. This staircase leads to a picturesque path called Verea de Enmedio which winds through the neighbourhood between cave houses. Always accompanied by spectacular views we pass by the Mirador Mario Maya, the Fuente de la Amapola and the Mirador de En Medio until we reach the  Cuesta de los Chinos  and the Placeta Albaida which brings us back to the steep Cuesta del Chapiz.

We climb up to Plaza del Salvador where we can visit the only church in Granada that still has a Mussouman cloister. From here we start our tour of the upper Albaicín passing through Plaza Aliatar, Calle Pagés, Plaza de Fátima y Calle del Agua to finally arrive at the picturesque Plaza Larga. Along the walk pay attention to the signs of the shops and businesses, all made of tiles. The ‘Coca Cola’ blue and white ceramic tiles in arabesque style are unique in the world and were designed exclusively for the Albaicín by this multinational company in the 1970s to blend in with the Nasrid style of the neighbourhood. They deserve a photo.

 

cocacola


From Plaza Larga and passing the historic Arco de las Pesas we take the Callejón de San Cecilio which leads us to the church of  San Nicolás
and its famous Plaza Mirador with the most famous and photographed view of the Alhambra. The Granada Mosque, right next to the church, has gardens that offer the same view with a little less hustle and bustle.

We take the Camino Nuevo de San Nicolas and enter the MIrador de Santa Isabel con bonitas vistas panorámicas. with beautiful panoramic views. Very close to the square in the small Callejón del Ladrón de Agua is the Palacio de Dar al-Horra a jewel of Nasrid architecture which is well worth a visit. From the palace via Callejón del Gallo we reach the picturesque Plaza de San Miguel Bajo. If the church is open, which is rare, the tower offers the best view imaginable, a spectacular 360º panoramic view of the whole of Granada including one of the most beautiful views of the Alhambra. Don't hesitate, go up. Passing the church we find the beautiful convent of Santa Isabel la Real, a little known and surprising jewel.

From here we start the descent along Calle Tiña, then Calle Quijada passing the Alminar de Almorabitum before reaching Placeta de San José from where we get to Cuesta de San Gregorio that will leads us to Plaza de San Gregorio and so we finally arrive at Las Teterías, an area of the lower part of the Albaicín framed between the Calderería Nueva and Calderería Vieja which with its Moorish architecture, craft shops, tea rooms and Arab pastry shops immediately transports us to a Moroccan medina. 

Going down the Calderería Nueva we reach the Calle Elvira, the old main street of the city and from there we return to the Plaza Nueva where we start our tour.   



Walk through the Realejo:

 

ruta a pie realejo

This is my neighbourhood. For many people from Granada, it is the best and most attractive place to live in the city.

We start at Plaza de Mariana Pineda and go up Plaza de los Campos where we can visit the interesting Cuarto Real de Santo Domingo, from here we continue to Plaza de Santo Domingo with the impressive painted façade of its church.

The small Plaza del Realejo gives access to a long flight of steps which we climb and at the end of which is the Plegadero Alto which leads to Plaza de San Cecilio. From here we enter the inmense Campo del Príncipe. Granada's largest square has plenty of terraces where you can eat and drink in a much less touristy atmosphere than in other parts of the centre.

If you like graffiti, on the corner of Molinos and Cuesta Monteros you will find one of the most famous graffiti by  El Niño de las Pinturas Granada's most famous graffiti artist. And just in front of it is the  Official Merchandasing Shop of this artist.El Realejo is full of his works, if you are interested you can search for routes and locations of his works on the Internet.

We return along Calle Molinos to the Plaza del Realejo and along Santa Escolástica we arrive at the cute Plaza Padre Suarez and just opposite the very interesting Palacio Museo de La Casa De Los Tiros. We continue along Pavaneras and before arriving at Plaza Isabel la Católica we turn left into San Matías and go down this street which leads to the Plaza de Mariana Pineda where we start our tour but, before reaching the square we will turn right into Calle Navas, the most traditional wine and tapas street of Granada, full of bars and restaurants.

Down Escudo del Carmen we get to Ángel Ganivet, a street full of elegant pubs and restaurants that is bustling at night, especially on summer nights and every weekend. And now, from here, we return to Plaza Mariana Pineda.











los cahorros



HICKING

If you like to be in the nature and have some extra time there are a few nice easy hikes you can go on from town. Grab your backpack some water and snacks and go!

Granada - PInos Genil (Along river Genil)




This one couldn't be easier, the starting point is "Paseo del Salón" just 300mts from home and from there you just have to walk upriver.

First walk 650mts along the gardens on the left bank until you get to Puente Verde, cross the river over the bridge there and keep walking upriver on the right bank from 2,5km until you get to Puente del Paseo de la Bicha.

Cross the river over the bridge and walk now on the left bank of the river for about 5km on Paseo del Rio Genil and then Paseo de la Duquesa until the path eventually ends giving you no option but to cross to the right bank of the river again over the bridge there.

You have now arrived at Pinos Genil, keep walking along the river for some 800mts to get to the main square where you will be welcomed by a number of nice tapas bars and restaurants along both banks of the river.

From there you can get a bus back to Granada if you don't feel like walking the same path back again.







more granada 

MUCH MORE TO BE SEEN


The Alhambra is rightly Granada's main tourist attraction, but its fame and grandeur often overshadows the huge variety of historical monuments and architectural gems that the city hides. If you're a little curious, and have the time and inclination, you'll be surprised to discover how much this town has to offer.

Andalusian Monuments:
Small jewels of the legacy of Nazari civil architecture in the city
Cuarto Real de Santo Domingo
Alcaiceria
Corral del Carbón

Bañuelo
Casa de Zafra

Casa Horno de Oro
Casa del Chapiz
Palacio de Dar al-Horra


Cármenes:
The word cármen, which is used in Granada to refer to a large house with a garden, comes from the Arabic ‘Karm’ which means ‘cultivated field’. So now you know, if you decide to move to Granada and buy a house with a patio in the Albaicín you will not be buying a villa but a cármen.

Cármen de los Martires
Cármen Fundación Rodriguez Acosta
Cármen de la Victoria
Cármen de los Geranios


Iglesias:
There are 267 churches in Granada but, unless you want to get into the Guinness Book of Records, you won't probably visit them all. These are in my opinion the most beautiful and interesting ones.

Basílica de San Juan de Dios
Basílica de la Virgen de las A
ngustias
Catedral
Capilla Real


Monasterios:
There are two monasteries in Granada and both are worth seeing. One for its elegant Renaissance sobriety and the other for its Baroque extravagance (there is no other word).

Monasterio de San Jerónimo
Monasterio de La Cartuja


La Universidad:
Linked to the city since the Nasrid period, Granada cannot be conceived without it. These three beautiful buildings (two of them of truly imposing architecture) show us the unbreakable bond that unites Granada with its university.

Palacio de la Madraza (Universidad Árabe)
Botánical Garden (Facultad de Derecho)
Hospital Real (Current Rectorship) 


Federico García Lorca:

If you are interested in the life and work of the great poet from Granada, make the most of your stay in the city where he lived and where he was murdered and pay tribute to him by visiting these two places.

Casa Huerta de San Vicente (Parque García Lorca)
Centro Federico Garcia Lorca

Excursiones:
Do you like fresh air and walking in nature? You don't need to go far. Granada is at the foot of the Sierra Nevada, surrounded by ravines and rivers within easy reach. Grab your backpack, a bottle of water and some snacks and start your hike from home.

Granada to Pinos Genil (relaxing)
Acequia Real de la Alhambra (enriching)
Los Cahorros in Monachil (espectacular)







MY MAP OF GRANADA
 

 

To get and save the map in high resolution press a few seconds on the image and then click on "download image" from the dropdown menu.

On this map you can see the location of all the places listed here at a glance, which can help you better decide where to go depending on where you are. Look for the blue and gray shaded numbers. The map also includes a list of 42 places of interest such as churches, museums, buildings, viewpoints, etc. These places are also numbered and correspond to the small black numbers on the map.

The map also offers practical information on some of the most frequently needed services such as laundry, post office, taxi stop, supermarkets, etc. as well as the location of the stops of those buses that may be most useful to you during your visit, especially those that connect with the airport, the bus station and the train station.

 

 

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Text and design by Víctor Ovies Arenas. All unauthorized copying, reproduction and/or distribution is prohibited. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

www.victorovies.com